INSIDE CHANEL CHAPTER 1 N°5 For the first time, a couturier revolutionizes the insular world of perfume by creating in 1921 her own fragrance, the first of its kind. Coco Chanel seeks, in her own words, "a woman's perfume with a woman's scent." Her scent should be as important as her style of dress. "A woman," she says, "should wear perfume wherever she would like to be kissed." For the first time, N°5 defies the conventions of perfume, which glorify single flower fragrances. Coco Chanel calls upon Ernest Beaux, perfumer to the Czars. In search of inspiration, Ernest Beaux ventures as far as the Arctic circle, finding his muse in the exhilarating air issuing from the northern lakes under the midnight sun. The couturier encourages him to be ever more audacious, demanding still more jasmine, the most precious of essences. May rose, Haitian vetiver, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, orange blossom, essence of Neroli, Brazilian Tonka beans... He composes a bouquet of over 80 scents for her. An abstract, mysterious perfume radiating an extravagance floral richness. For the first time, N°5 transforms the alchemy of scent through Ernest Beaux's innovative use of aldehydes, synthetic components which exalt perfumes, like lemon which accentuates the taste of strawberry. Aldehydes add layers of complexity, making N°5 ever more mysterious and impossible to decipher. For the first time, N°5, a code, an identification number, makes the sentimental names for the perfumes of the day seem instantly out of date. It receives its name because Mademoiselle Chanel prefers the fifth sample Ernest Beaux presents to her. According to some, she also chooses the number 5 because of its magical luck-giving qualities. For the first time, a perfume is presented in a simple laboratory flacon. Pure, austere, as bare as a vial, the minimal lines of the N°5 bottle distinguishes it from the mannered bottles of the 1920s. Its sobriety ensures its timelessness. By some accounts, its stopper, cut like a diamond, is inspired by the geometry of the place Vendôme. The original bottle adapts imperceptibly to its time. N°5 becomes an icon of the 20th century. In 1959, it is honored by the MOMA of New York. Andy Warhol depicts it in a series of silkscreens. For the first time, at the Liberation of Paris, GI's flock to the Chanel boutique on the rue Cambon, lining up to bring bottles of N°5 to wives and fiancées waiting at home. From the United States to Japan, the fragrance's fame spreads. It soon becomes the best-selling perfume in the world. For the first time, N°5 pioneers a new form of advertising in the world of fragrance. In 1937, Mademoiselle Chanel herself is photographed at the Ritz for Harper's Bazaar. For the first time, a fragrance is advertised at the Super Bowl finals. N°5 enjoys dizzying success. For the first time, N°5's place in history is secured when Marilyn Monroe, at the height of her stardom in 1952, reveals that she wears to bed just a few drops of N°5... For the first time, Jacques Helleu, artistic director of Chanel between 1965 and 2007, features celebrities as incarnations of the iconic perfume. In 1968, Catherine Deneuve agrees to lend her French beauty to N°5, followed by Candice Bergen, Suzy Parker, Ali MacGraw, Lauren Hutton, Carole Bouquet, Estella Warren, Nicole Kidman, Audrey Tautou. For the first time in the history of N°5, a man agrees to represent the most feminine of fragrances: Brad Pitt. For the first time, a perfume created in 1921 is still the best-selling and most famous fragrance in the world. N°5 resists the whims of fashion and the passage of time, as if Mademoiselle Chanel had found the formula for the feminine eternal. Inside Chanel，走进Chanel的故事 第一章：N°5 第一次，一位时装设计师为封闭保守的香水业带来变革。1921年，她创造了她独一无二的香水，史无前例。用可可•香奈儿的话说，她在寻求“一瓶闻上去有女人味的香水。”女子的香味应该与她的穿着风格同等重要。她说，“女人，应该把香水涂抹在她想被亲吻的地方。” 第一次，N°5打破惯例，在那个崇尚单一花香调的时代，可可•香奈儿邀请俄国沙皇御用调香师恩尼斯•鲍为她寻找灵感。恩尼斯•鲍甚至跋涉到北极圈，在冰寒的空气中寻找香水的缪斯，徘徊于北方午夜极昼下的湖边。香奈儿女士鼓励他应该要更加大胆，添加更多的茉莉，那最贵的香精。五月玫瑰，海地香根草，依兰，檀香木，柑橘花，橙花香精，巴西东加豆...80多种花材变成一捧芬芳的花束。一款抽象而神秘的香水，洋溢着极致馥郁的花香。 第一次，N°5改写了香氛的魔法组合，恩尼斯•鲍首次运用芳香物质——乙醛，让所有成分完美融合，如同以柠檬凸显草莓的清甜。乙醛使得香气更有层次，也使N°5愈加神秘，让人难以捉摸。 第一次，N°5，一个神奇的符号，一个简单的数字，令当时其他娇柔造作的香水名称即刻显得过时。香奈儿女士选用这个名字，因为她喜欢恩尼斯•鲍给她的第5个香水样本。也有人说，她选择5为香水命名，因为5是个神奇的幸运数字。 第一次，香水被装在如同实验室容器般朴素的瓶中，纯净，简洁，没有任何缀饰。N°5香水的极简设计，与上世纪20年代那些矫饰的香水瓶相比，显得别具一格。完美的比例，让它成为永恒经典之作。它的瓶盖，如同完美切割的钻石，灵感来于芳登广场的几何轮廓。顺应时代的变迁，瓶盖也有些小小的修改，N°5成为20世纪的经典象征。1959年，N°5香水成为纽约MOMA现代艺术博物馆的永久典藏。安迪•沃霍尔以N°5为主题，创作了一系列丝印版画。 第一次，当二战的硝烟刚刚从巴黎散去，美国大兵便簇拥于康朋街的香奈儿精品店前，排着长龙购买N°5，只为带给在家乡等候的另一半。从西半球到东半球，N°5的美誉无远弗届，很快就成为全世界最畅销的香水。 第一次，N°5成为香水广告的先驱。1957年，香奈儿女士在丽兹酒店出境，为N°5广告代言，刊载于《时尚芭莎》。 第一次，一款香水在超级碗决赛上做广告，N°5的成功举世罕见。 第一次，N°5的历史地位无人能及。当性感女神梦露在1952年以全球最知名女星身份回应记者问她穿什么睡觉时，说道：“几滴N°5...” 第一次，贾克•海卢——香奈儿1965到2007年的创意总监——邀请全世界最耀眼的明星来诠释这款经典香水。1968年，凯瑟琳•德纳芙欣然用她的法式优雅演绎N°5。之后代言的名人有：坎迪斯•伯根，苏茜•帕克，劳伦•赫顿，妮可•基德曼等。 第一次，在N°5的历史上，一位男士同意为这款极致女性化的香水代言——布拉德•皮特。 第一次，一款生产与1921年的香水，仍然是全球最畅销，最著名的香水。N°5无惧时代变迁，始终屹立于时尚浪潮中。香奈儿女士找到了女人味的永恒奥秘。
我只得到这一个，我也一直很想要
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